Like so many 'firsts', scoring your first mountain bike is a bit
of a journey into the unknown. Rest easy — a few basic
pointers will help you navigate the jungle of hype and puffery
to get yourself a genuine off-road bike without mortgaging
your soul. It helps to think about your prospective bike as
a frame and components. Your final choice will invariably involve
a number of trade-offs but getting your head around the critical
variables should help.
Creeping elegance
Unless you've just won Lotto you'll want to keep a lid on the expenditure.
For something that will actually survive your first session in the
dirt expect to pay NZ$900 - NZ$1500. When you start checking out the
options, beware of 'creeping elegance'. It's easy to be seduced by
lighter and better components but small gains in performance cost exponentially
more. During the steep learning curve of your first year's biking you'll
destroy a lot of that expensive stuff - best you gain experience with
modestly priced componentry and look to upgrading when your skill level
will most appreciate it.
Boing! Boing!
An extension of this argument is to make your first bike a hard tail
(front suspension only). A well-engineered, lightweight, dual suspension
rig delivers a plush ride for sure. The advent of the 'stable platform
technology' rear shock has improved the performance of most rear suspension
designs - but you'll need to raise your budget to around NZ$2200 to
avoid buying a total lemon, and there will still be a weight penalty
over a comparable hard tail.
If it don't fit...
The correct frame size and fit is paramount. An over eager sales person
can easily squeeze you into the wrong size bike - forewarned is forearmed
and all that. Bikes are sized according to the seat tube length, ie
height. When standing astride the bike there should be 7 to 10cm clearance
between your crotch and the top tube (be wary when comparing different
brands as they all seem to measure their frames differently - a large
18-19" K2 will not be the same as a large 18" Santa Cruz).
Equally important is the top tube length. You need to be able to stretch
out comfortably when riding — a slight bend in the arms is about
right. When comparing bikes the effective top tube length is most useful
(the horizontal distance from the top tube/head tube junction to the
seat tube). The right frame for you will be the right combination of
height and top tube length. Check out 'A Perfect
Match - You and Your Bike' under Tech Tips for more on setting
up your bike.
‘ Allo alloy
In this price range you'll struggle to find any frame other than alloy.
But that's cool - alloy is light, stiff and the oversized tube looks
dead sexy. Be aware that not all alloy is created equal. Check that
the tubing is heat treated, double butted and a reasonable weight -
the weight of the complete bike should be around 27lbs.
The Shimano standard
While SRAM components are now popping up regularly on new bikes, you're
still most likely to be presented with various combinations of Shimano
componentry and hence be baffled by talk of 'group sets'. The expression
harks back to the early days when a single manufacturer, usually Shimano,
supplied all the bike's components. XTR and XT are top of the heap
but you'll be choosing between Deore and LX - with perhaps a hint of
XT at the top of the NZ$1500 price band. In order to hit certain price
points most bike brands use recognisable Shimano parts for brakes,
shifters and rear derailleur… but sneak in cheap (‘n' often)
nasty cranks, cogs, chain, bottom bracket and hubs. Be sure you know
what you're getting for your hard-earned shekels.
Disc drive
Good disc brakes (generally hydraulic) are great and priced accordingly.
Cable actuated disks are increasingly an option on cheaper bikes, but
most don't actually work as well as good v-brakes and can add substantial
weight. However, proven reliability in all weather conditions make
them an ideal riding companion during a New Zealand 'summer'. Remember
to check availability and price of replacement disc pads too.
Shocking
Front Shocks are pretty much de rigueur these days. They absorb big bumps
and reduce vibration - increasing comfort, safety and enjoyment. A
basic elastomer and/or spring suspension from Suntour or Manitou is
pretty standard. At the NZ$1500 end of the band you will probably score
a fork with oil compression dampening. Be sure the shop tunes the shock
to suit your weight. Lighter or heavier riders may need different springs
- and these are not always available. Oil dampened forks usually offer
adjustment and lockout 'on the fly'.
Swapping components
Shops will often let you swap components to get the fit right - maybe
a different length stem or gruntier tyres. For obvious reasons you'll
save money by doing this before you wheel your steed off the show room
floor. A specific women's saddle is a worthy upgrade for most women.
They tend to be soft or hollow in the nose and wider at the back. Be
warned - bikes on sale tend to have more restrictions on mixing and
matching.
The fine print
Clipless pedals are now pretty much standard on entry-level bikes, so
keep some coins in the piggy bank to buy some cleat-friendly cycle
shoes ($100+). Regardless of your prowess in mechanical matters, you'll
inevitably require the services of a cycle mechanic from time to time.
A six-week check up is usually part of the sale's pitch. Talk with
other cyclists to suss out which shop gets the good rap around town.
You're bound to get looked after better if your preferred workshop
is also where you bought your bike.
Now, suss out the options at your local
bike shops, find a trustworthy sales person and look forward
to your first fling in the dirt.
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